
Roads that aren’t roads and now travelling slower than a legless tortoise….
Dragged ourselves away from Villa de Leyva and headed for San Gil via the backest of back roads.
Day 1 to Gambita was a mixture of stunning scenery, interesting flora and fauna, friendly police, torrential rain, rough roads and riding into town in the dark to a “swanky” hotel with out the swank i.e. no hot water!


Day 2 was something else! We literally travelled 20km in 26 hours! We’d had trouble getting the gps to route us on a road that we knew to exist – it didn’t take long to find out why the GPS had more brains than us.
The “road” was really just a boulder strewn track hardly suitable for horses let alone two exhausted gringos on bicycles; 900m of climbing, 450m of descent, two broken spokes and a buggered rear derailleur. This is really remote country. We saw a couple of local trucks early on ( got invited to go fishing! ) and that was it.
After 8 hours of slog and 16km covered, we came across a basic shelter with a couple of people outside (turned out that they were from a nearby Dhaoist community) who said we could camp by their shelter.
Day 3. Struggled along with broken bike on a really broken road. Mainly pushing covering 4km in 3.5 hours.
Eventually reached a better road where we hitched a lift in a truck with our hero Rodolfo and his mate who took us to San Gil where we made repairs.







Camped at the “community”.



Crossing foot-suspension bridge – new bridge not built, river too deep to ford.

Our hero Rodolfo coming to the rescue!

The expression says it all!

Still had great views from the truck!

14 thoughts on “Roads that aren’t roads and now travelling slower than a legless tortoise….”
Omg that sounds like bloody hard work. You’re freaking be out! Thank god for Rodolfo and I bet you crashed like babes that night camped at “the community”.
I also think it was our own personal Bernardo O Higgins. That’s the bit on the carretera where you have to carry your bike isn’t it? If they still do that? Though don’t they have horses to carry your panniers. That would have been nice. The bike damage is a bit of a bummer though. Not entirely sorted but we are currently chilling in nice local. Barichara. Xxx
This is amazing stuff! Have a great Feliz ano Nuevo gringos xxx
Sounds like hard work but it looks like you are enjoying it.
I had to look up Dhaoist and then google it. I now know a lot about the movement in Colombia.
In France for New Year. Very feisty & foggy.
Hi Steve & Michelle,
Following your blog with interest and sorry to hear of the misfortunes of broken bikes, broken roads & broken weather – but if you wanted a quiet life you’d be here in London!
Have a fantastic New Year & hope the roads and the weather are smoother from now on!
Lots of love,
Katreya & Roman xxx
Hello. We’re actually having a great time. The mechanical issues are a bit of a pain and the roads, or non-roads have been hard work at times but the scenery has been amazing, the remoteness of it all worth every drop of sweat and the Colombians are just the nicest, happiest, friendliest people. We’d heartily recommend a visit to Colombia before it takes off and people get tourist saturated and prices escalate.
Beer is a £1. A nice dinner £3, and a reasonable hospedaje/hotel room £10 to £20.
We’ve been deliberately choosing back country dirt roads precisely to get all of the above and more!
Have an excellent Happy New Year both of you – and all you other blog readers. XX
Wishing you a very Happy New Year. All the best for your travels and through 2017. Have fun. Love LnC
Yep. Happy New Year to you guys too. Have a mega 2017!xx S&M
Hi Steve and Michelle,
A very happy new year to you both.
Great to follow your adventures and seeing how much you are enjoying yourselfs.
Lots of hugs and kisses from me and all @ IDOL.
xxxxx Marc
Hi Marc.
Give everyone at Idol a big Happy New Year from us!
Xx
Happy New Year Bikers!
You’re not missing much here in blighty – loads of fog, rain etc.
Looking forward to my own flight to the sun soon!
Hi Guys
Have finally found time in our busy social whirl to settle down in front of a nice fire and read your blog. Sounds like you are having a fantastic, if somewhat exhausting trip. Bummer about the Columbian belly and mechanical troubles, hopefully all behind you now. The scenery looks stunning with huge vistas that go on as far as the eye can see, seems to let your soul soar. Mind you it did that when paragliding I bet.
Happy onward travels
Love Jan and I xxx
Hola buenas dias
Read your blog and am satisfied that the travelling is as you promised.
You need the ” luxury break ” every so often.
The photos truly showed the roads and scenery.
Lovely photo of you both in Villa Los Levye.
Wished u Happy New Year already. But again happy travels.
I listened to a talk by Alain De Botton on romantic love in Brisbane. Excellent as well as being very amusing.
He is travelling promoting his latest book on same.
Off on my adventure to Gold Coast but think I will ho by plane.😁
Love Mum
Meant to say Gina, the Careterra Austral is bowling green smooth compared to the dirt roads of Colombia…. You shouldn’t find it too tough and I expect that they’ll have sealed a lot more of it since we were there 6 years ago!